Désert des Agriates (Agriates Desert)
The Désert des Agriates in Corsica is less known than other parts of the island. However, it includes the magnificent beaches of Saleccia and Lotu… And you can walk through the bush with beautiful views of the mountains. So a trip here will give you unforgettable memories of the amazing landscapes of the Island of Beauty, as well as the opportunity to swim on some of the most beautiful beaches in Corsica.
Beautiful, but not quite a desert
The Agriates Desert (désert des Agriates) is not really a desert. It is a wild peninsula where rocky ridges alternate with valleys covered in dense Mediterranean maquis. There are even temporary streams that sometimes flow through the vegetation.
The area has been inhabited since the Neolithic era. Throughout history, the land has been cultivated and used for transhumance.
Since 1979, 15,000 hectares of the area have been protected, and tourism is developed through boat trips, hikes and 4×4 tours.
It is one of the must-see places from Saint-Florent or L’Ile-Rousse.
Paradise Beaches
Today, the Agriates region is particularly famous for its paradise beaches, especially Saleccia beach.
Here are some of the most beautiful beaches in Corsica: Saleccia, Lotu, Ostriconi… The entire coastline is surrounded by crystal clear, transparent waters of an amazing turquoise color.
Pine trees, white sand in contrast to the turquoise sea and a view of the Cap Corse mountains… what more could you want?
How to visit the Agriates Desert?
Where is the Agriates Desert
- Northern Corsica, west coast. South of Saint-Florent.
- Calvi to Saint-Florent = 1 hour 30 minutes.
- Bastia to Saint-Florent = 40 minutes.
- Ajaccio to Saint-Florent = 3 hours 15 minutes (inland road)
- Corte – Saint-Florent = 1 hour 30 minutes.
The road that goes around the reserve is called D81.
How to get to Saleccia Beach and Lotu Beach
There are only roads for 4WD vehicles in the protected area.
Here is an overview of 7 options to get to Saleccia Beach:
- Trip to Saint-Florent + comfortable boat to Lotu Beach + hike to Saleccia Beach.
- Trip to Saint-Florent + speedboat to Saleccia Beach.
- Drive to Saint-Florent + 4WD excursion from Saint-Florent or Casta.
- Drive by car if you have your own 4WD
- Hiking from Saint-Florent to Lotu Beach and then to Saleccia.
- Day excursion from Calvi
- Day excursion from Bastia
Visiting the Agriates Desert by Boat + Hike
Your first option to visit the desert is to take a boat from Saint-Florent. From April to October, regular boats run between the town and the pontoon at Lotu Beach.
The trip takes less than 20 minutes, and the pontoon at Lotu Beach makes it easy to get on and off.
Popeye is one of the main boat companies. It’s a fairly large boat, so the journey is easy. Otherwise, you can use Taxi-plages Saint-Florent, which has a speedboat to both beaches.
If you are planning a trip in the middle of summer, be sure to book your seat in advance.
Boat to Lotu
The boat ride to Lotu Beach is short but very pleasant. There is much to see during the trip:
- Saint-Florent surrounded by mountains
- The Cap Corse mountains plunging into the sea
- La Mortella, a Genoese tower with a long history. It was built between 1553 and 1555 to protect the region.
Hike to Saleccia Beach
From Lotu Beach to Saleccia, the journey takes 1:00 – 1:15, either on the inland road or the coastal road.
During the summer months, 4WD buses run between the two beaches.
Driving to the Agriates Desert
The only road that crosses this desert is the D81 (if you are coming from the south, from Calvi, Ile Rousse or Corte). Driving south of this desert, you will have a view of one of its highest peaks, reaching less than 500 meters. From this road, there are several routes that lead to the coast of Agriates in the north. These routes are for 4WD vehicles only.
There are several parking places along the D81. The road is in good condition and easy to drive. From here you can already see the rocky edges of the desert and the green valleys.
Even if you can’t see it, there is quite a lot of fresh water here: from 12 streams and 32 springs (according to Wikipedia). So despite the name, this is far from a desert. And in the background you can see the Gulf of Saint-Florent and the Cap Corse mountains.
The highest peaks in this area are Cima d’Ifana (479 m) and Monte Genova (421 m). But the most recognizable is the Monte Jenuva with its pointed top.
As you can see, it doesn’t look like a desert at all. The area is covered with Mediterranean maquis: low and dense vegetation.
Note:
If you want to explore the desert, you absolutely need a 4WD vehicle. Don’t risk driving a normal car. The roads are steep and very bumpy.
There is a 12 km drive between the main road and Saleccia beach. The drive takes 1 hour!
If you don’t have a 4WD vehicle but still want to visit the Agriates desert, you have 3 options:
- Join an excursion from Saint-Florent, for example with a visit to Saleccia beach and an off-road trip. They offer different routes
- Take an excursion from Calvi – see the program and availability
- Join a day trip from Bastia – see the program and availability
The advantage of this option is that you will get to places that are not often visited by tourists, and you will also learn more about the region and its history. As always, these types of excursions are run by local enthusiasts and enthusiasts!
Speedboat to Saleccia Beach
If the weather permits, there are also water taxis to Saleccia Beach. They go beyond the bay, so you don’t know what the conditions will be like when approaching the beach. Therefore, transfers may be cancelled. Especially since this is a small boat and it does not have a pontoon. You will have to get off the boat directly into the water.
The journey takes about 25 minutes.
Agriates Desert Beaches
There are some beautiful beaches in the Agriates “desert”:
Lotu Beach
Lotu Beach is another must-visit during your trip to the Agriates Desert. Though smaller than Saleccia, it’s equally stunning with its fine sand and crystal-clear turquoise waters.
Lotu Beach is one of the most protected beaches in the desert. Since it is still inside the bay, the water is calmer here. It is quite a large sand spit. On the plus side, you can sunbathe on the sand while enjoying the fantastic view of the Cap Corse mountains.
Notes and tips:
- The sand sometimes accumulates dead Posidonia algae. This can happen on any beach. So, sometimes the beach may not look like paradise, but it is very important to protect the coast.
- You may see cows wandering around. Do not approach. Let them roam. It is their territory!
- There is a small cafe next to Lotu Beach. However, it is only open in the summer.
- The beach is not guarded
Following the inner path to Saleccia beach (shorter than the coastal path), you can admire Lotu beach and the lagoon from above. From here you have the best view of the Cap Corse mountains!
Unlike Saleccia, Lotu lacks pine trees, but the typical Corsican maquis and occasionally a few sunbathing wild cows add to its charm. Be sure to keep your distance from them!
As with Saleccia, there are no facilities like toilets or options to rent deckchairs and umbrellas. However, a small bar/restaurant is conveniently located just a 5-minute walk away, to the left of the beach.
Saleccia Beach
Welcome to Saleccia Beach, one of Corsica’s most breathtaking spots. This pristine stretch of white sand extends for over 1 km, offering a captivating mix of natural beauty:
- Soft white sand dunes
- Rugged desert rocks
- Crystal-clear turquoise waters
- The majestic Cap Corse mountains in the background
You’ll find yourself wanting to spend the entire day mesmerized by the waves gently crashing on the shore.
There’s just a small beach bar nestled under the pine trees where you can grab a bite or a drink. If you’re planning to spend the entire day at Saleccia, make sure to pack everything you’ll need, especially plenty of water!
Notes and Tips:
- Saleccia Beach has a couple of restaurants, but they’re only open during the summer. You’ll find one at each end of the beach, though not directly on the sand.
- The beach is more exposed to the sea, so be cautious as there can be larger waves.
- It is an unguarded beach.
- In 1961, scenes from the Normandy landings for the movie “The Longest Day” were filmed here, thanks to the lack of modern buildings.
- In 1943, the submarine Casabianca secretly delivered weapons to the French resistance on this very beach.
If you’re up for a walk between the two beaches, you have two options:
- A 45-minute walk along the trail through the maquis
- A longer, but scenic 1h20 walk along the seaside path
The seaside route is highly recommended, as the other trail is often busy with 4WD tours, which could leave you covered in dust!
Trave Beach
A beautiful bay with white sand and turquoise water. You can get here from Saleccia Beach (about 1 hour walk)
Ghignu Beach
A long white sand beach, less frequented than Saleccia.
Requires a 4WD with high ground clearance.
Cala di Malfalcu Beach
If you are looking for something quieter, Malfaccu Beach is even more secluded in the Agriates Desert.
A short walk from Ghignu, with turquoise waters, dunes of juniper and Aleppo pines.
Acciolu Beach
Another dream beach with white sand and turquoise water.
2 hours walk from Ostriconi Beach.
Vana Beach
30 minutes walk from Ostriconi Beach.
Quiet and deserted, with beautiful cliffs.
Ostriconi Beach
In the eastern part of the Agriates Desert you will find one of the best beaches in Corsica: Ostriconi. It can be reached by car, the view from the road is beautiful. The beach is very picturesque, with cliffs and white sand! Read more…
Hiking trails in the Agriates Desert
The Agriates Desert is a true haven for hiking enthusiasts, offering both day hikes and longer treks. One of the most renowned and scenic trails in the area is the route between Lotu and Saleccia beaches. You can choose between the inland path, which takes about an hour, or the coastal path, which takes around 1 hour and 15 minutes. For the best experience, consider taking one trail there and the other on the way back. The inland route, in particular, reveals some of the most breathtaking landscapes of the Agriates Desert.
For those seeking a longer adventure, there is the coastal trail from Saint-Florent. Starting from Roya Beach, it’s a 6-hour hike to reach Saleccia Beach.
If you’re up for an even more extended journey, you can follow the coastal path from Roya Beach all the way to Ostriconi Beach. This 35 km trek takes around 14 hours, with the option to stay overnight in one of the restored shepherds’ houses along the way. Keep an eye out for animals on the trails, and remember — it’s best to admire them from a distance!
Frequently asked questions
Which beach is the most beautiful: Lotu or Saleccia?
Locally, Lotu is the most beautiful, with a view of the bay and the Cap Corse mountains. Saleccia is the best beach, with white sand, far from everything.
Where to take the boat to Saleccia beach and the Agriates desert?
The boats leave only from the pier of Saint-Florent. You will not miss them!
Is it possible to visit Saleccia beach by car?
Only if you have a 4WD with high ground clearance. Once you leave the main road, you will find very bumpy roads. If you have a standard car, no, it is not possible.
Agriates desert by mountain bike
The desert trails are also ideal for mountain biking. Remember to bring everything you need (water, snacks…) and a good shelter from the sun! Mountain bikes are available for rent in Saint-Florent.
The Agriates Desert, seen from the sky
You can also enjoy an exceptional experience by flying in an ultralight airplane from Saint-Florent
Kayaking to the Agriates Desert?
You can also choose a kayak excursion, on your own or with a guide. These excursions usually leave from Lozari Beach and go to the Agriates Nature Reserve. Others leave from Saint-Florent and go to the paradisiacal beaches north of the desert. You can also rent your own kayak, but this is an option for more experienced people. Prices can be found at the tourist office.
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